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This document shows how to connect a car stereo (head unit) only. No subwoofers, aftermarket amplifiers, crossovers, etc. You
can get amazing sound from just a high-power head unit (4 x 40W) and upgrading the stock speakers (4×6 in. front, 6.5 in. rear).
This system used a Kenwood KDC-1011S AM/FM/CD head unit and Boston Acoustics 2-way 4×6 and 6.5 in. speakers. It was retrofitted into a 1991 Nissan 240SX with a factory premium sound package, replacing the AM/FM/Cassette head unit and dual-cone speakers. I applaud the Nissan designers for making it so easy to install a head unit into the dash. The plastic dash piece that surrounds the stereo, A/C, and shifter is retained with four spring clips; just lift it off. The stereo is secured into the dash by a bracket and four mounting screws. Wire Color and function. LIGHT GREEN ->AMPLIFIER POWER This is an output from the unit. When turned on, the unit should apply +12V power to this signal. If you have the Nissan premium sound package, its amplifiers use this signal to control their on/off state. Connect this to the ANTENNA POWER output on the new unit. BLACK W/RED STRIPE -> ANTENNA POWER, This is an output from the unit. When turned on, the unit should apply +12V power to this signal. The power antenna uses this signal to control its up/down state. Connect to the ANTENNA POWER output on the new unit. If you don’t mind cutting into the car’s wiring, you can cut off the rectangular plastic connectors and attach the head unit wires directly. If you want to keep the connectors, get a wiring harness adapter from Radio Shack. If you have the Nissan premium sound package, each speaker has it’s own amplifier. I recommend connecting the new unit’s speaker outputs into the existing amplifier inputs, instead of direct to the speakers.
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